South Park Bridge

South Park is a small neighborhood in West Seattle, nestled between West Marginal Way and the Duwamish River.  It’s a relatively poor neighborhood with depressed property values and an unhealthy proximity to Seattle’s heavy industry.  South Park’s soil is laden with heavy metals, and nobody knows exactly what’s in the Duwamish.

South Park used to have a bridge.

South Park Bridge

South Park Bridge

The South Park bridge connected the neighborhood to Georgetown and the rest of civilization.  It was built in 1931 by a tribe of Seattle engineers unable to envision a bridge that didn’t in some way involve bascules.  “How else would a ship get past a bridge?  Ships can’t climb over bridges!” they reasoned.

South Park Bridge leaf

Regardless, one must concede that the drawbridge style did give the bridge a certain aesthetic appeal.

South Park Bridge

South Park Bridge

A nearby marina adds to the attractiveness of the area.

South Park Marina

Possibly the lowest budget marina in a city that appears to have thousands, the South Park Marina’s most interesting feature is that it’s located downriver from a superfund site (or, as the marina’s describes it, the “fresh, calm waters of the Duwamish River”).

South Park Marina

The marina is also across the river from Boeing’s infamous Plant 2, concretely building 2-41 .  The source of many of the more toxic elements currently found in the Duwamish, engineers at Plant 2 manufactured airplane parts using heavy metals, cyanide, mineral acids and bases, petroleum products, PCBs, and chlorinate solvents.

All in a day’s work.

Derelict warehouse

Plant 2 was built in 1935, and was key to the US war effort during World War II.  At its peak, Plant 2 produced 16 B-17 bombers a day, and an astonishing total of 6,981 were created during the war.  Plant 2 also produced B-52s and 737 passenger jets.

South Park Bridge

During the war, Plant 2 was camouflaged to look like a suburban neighborhood.  Netting, fake houses and fake trees were used to cover the factory installations, aiming to make it harder for hypothetical Japanese air raids to hit such a juicy target.

American derelict

Plant 2 is currently scheduled for demolition.

South Park Bridge

Returning to the bridge, and fast-forwarding to 2001…  Already in a state of disrepair, the South Park bridge’s shaky timbers were rattled by the Nisqually Earthquake.  A year later, it was rated at 6 out of 100 on the infamous Federal Highway Administration scale – the bane of many a crumbling piece of infrastructure nationwide.

According to King County, the bridge’s foundations were heavily cracked as they settled into the liquifiable soil underneath.  And like a Seattle rock band, the “substandard concrete in the piers was undergoing a self-destructive process that could not be reversed or repaired.”

South Park Bridge

The South Park Bridge was closed in the interest of public safety on June 30, 2010.  The neighborhood threw a large farewell party, and lovingly graffitied its bascule leaves.

South Park Bridge graffiti

The bridge’s leaves were removed in August and September of 2010, leaving a melancholy sight and a neighborhood completely cut off from its urban artery.

Duwamish reflections

In late 2010, after several dramatic failures to raise funds, various King County fund-raising endeavors and a drama-infused federal TIGER grant succeeded in reaching the $100 million mark required for reconstruction.  A new South Park bridge will be built, with its reopening date scheduled for 2013.

We’ll be there.

Duwamish reflections

The complete Flickr set.

Walker Rock Garden

What if Antoni Gaudí had grown up in West Seattle in the 1950s, instead of 19th century Cataluña?  What if he worked as a mechanic for Boeing, instead of building gothic churches?

You might get something like this:

Walker Rock Garden

Milton Walker was a Boeing mechanic who used stones, geodes, petrified wood, and colored shards of glass to create a miniature sculpture garden in his backyard.  Milton and his wife Florence worked on this for twenty years, creating (among other things) an 18-foot bell tower, ornate fountains, a scaled-down rendition of the Alps, a gorgeously paved fireplace area with seating, and a number of butterfly-themed mosaics.

 

Walker Rock Garden

Walker Rock Garden

It’s actually difficult to do the Walker Rock Garden justice using photographs. You really have to see it for yourself close up.  Examine the river rock color gradients, the well-placed shards of glass.  Everything in its right place.  And so much labor and focus, invested in the design and construction of something that (sadly) appears to lack any significant commercial value. In that sense, Walker’s work is a throwback to a bygone era, a time when art existed for its own sake, born of passion or a passionate maecenas and brought into being with singular focus, as if nothing else mattered.

Walker Rock Garden

In a sense, the Walker Rock Garden is the antithesis of modern art and design.  It resists the urge to make art saleable, to optimize the means of production, to produce new discardable work ever more rapidly, to strip design down to the values of mass production, to embrace planned or neglectful obsolescence, or simply to saturate the market.

In fact, none of what Walker did in his garden was efficient, necessary, marketable, or even useful.  And that is why it is beautiful.  It is a labor of love, and of genius, and it is unique.  It could never have been built any other way.

Walker Rock Garden

Walker Rock Garden

The future of the Walker Rock Garden is uncertain.  It is currently managed by Walker’s children, and is still, remarkably, free for anyone to visit.  Just close the latch when you leave.

When we visited in the summer of 2010, there was no longer any running water and the garden was overgrown with weeds.  Down the slope from the main garden area we caught hints of some more beautiful work, but it was fenced off from the public and overrun by ivy.  I later read that a "Friends Of the Walker Rock Garden" preservation group had once existed, but it was disbanded by request of the owners.

Part of me wanted to call in an airstrike of EarthCorps volunteers to help clean the place up.  Part of me wanted to pay admission.  But is that what Walker would have wanted?  Perhaps converting his labor of love into a commercial museum would be the antithesis of his message.  Perhaps it would defeat the purpose of the work.

So we left a donation and closed the latch behind us.  It was a beautiful Seattle summer day.  No one else was around.

Mandrill face

The complete Flickr set.