South Orchard Street

If South Park were the deep African wilderness, then South Orchard Street would be its heart of darkness.

Orchard & Occidental

We reach this unlikely intersection by following 2nd Ave until its bitter end at the Duwamish shoreline. Nearby, the highway 509 that brought us here traverses what was once a wetland. Acres of pavement and fill proudly announce the reclamation, utilization and civilization of land from wilderness.

We fly on asphalt friction until gravel grinds and rainwater splashes. Unpaved roads and pothole swarms are no obstacle to our momentum. Containers smile and point the way. Abandoned cars gesture caution to temper our exuberance.

South Orchard Street begins here and ends a few hundred feet down the road. No more is needed.

Vacant lot

The heart of darkness is a vacant lot across from a blackberry thicket. Behind the thicket, a riparian inlet where salmon spawned before the world began.

The vacant lot is river mud softened by rain and scored with large-tread tire tracks. A barrel pyramid looms in the distance. Cement blocks imply potential architecture as yet unborn. This place is not yet what it will become.

No man's land

The rusted container signals its mysterious command to trespassers. The abandoned lunar probe sits forever awaiting rescue. The earth wonders why nothing will grow.

Beside the alien container ten thousand cannons lie silent, a machine gun nest of retired metal. These are the pipes that carried the flow, the links that connected the graph, the launch tubes that fired the torpedoes that won the forgotten war. Here retired they must rust.

Rusted pipes

The barrel pyramid is formidable archeology, more colorful than Cheops and more useful than Chichen Itza. But its moment too has come and gone.

Barrel pyramid

This is the eastern side of the Industrial Container Services site, where the firm’s most battle-scarred and least attractive barrels are stacked. Veterans of toxic waste spills meet containers used at nuclear accidents. They are stained beyond repair, rusted beyond hope. And yet still beautiful.

Barrel pyramid

An engine’s roar returns our attention to South Orchard Street. A pickup truck laden with debris appears, and pauses at the sight of us. In this no-man’s land, no mission could possibly be legal.

A nervous energy fills every opening. Snipers take aim. The innocent hide behind containers. Hammers cock behind trembling fingers. The pickup truck advances, its cargo carefully balanced by slender ropes. The air is dense, unbreathable. A decision is being made.

Then the truck turns around and departs. Mission not accomplished. Perhaps a more legitimate destination awaits, or another moment when the tourists have gone.

The snipers relax. Lungs refill. Oxygen tastes strangely sweet. But South Orchard Street remains. Beside the river, debris was dumped yesterday and debris will be dumped tomorrow.

No place becomes worthless on its own. No place becomes worthless overnight. Perhaps no place is ever worthless at all, except to the unworthy. But day after day, year after year, neglect accumulates into scar tissue upon the landscape. The unwanted becomes unwelcoming.

And eventually, it is no longer the debris that does not belong; it is us.

Ghost pipes

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Port of Seattle

At first glance, the Port of Seattle is a hostile, inhuman place.  It is a police state on an artificial island, defended by barbed wire and an infinite number of checkpoints and security guards.

Barbed Wire

It is also a Superfund site, thanks to upstanding corporate citizens such as Shell Oil and their magnificent petroleum storage tanks.

Fuel storage at Port of Seattle

The port’s primary purpose is to transfer an oceanful of containers from enormous cargo ships to endless trains.  With over two million containers processed per year, it’s an unimaginably large operation.

Port of Seattle

The port’s most striking feature are its massive cranes.  Were we to encounter them in nature, we would say that like the hummingbird’s tongue, the crane is a fantastic adaptation – in this case, to a natural abundance of standard-sized containers.

Port of Seattle crane in actionPort of Seattle crane with container

Seen at this scale, the port is more Star Wars than Pacific Northwest.  In this version the droids took over and dedicated the energies of the universe to replication.

Port of Seattle

All this hardware is a throwback to an earlier time, before the lures of plastics, when men were men and every American delighted in designing enormous metal machines. When everyone had a hammer, and the the sky burned red from the ore, the smelters, and the sheer joy of manufacturing.

Port of SeattlePort of Seattle

But the cranes are but a means to an end, and that end is containers.

Inside the containers lie dormant the very seeds of the globalized economy.  Embodied ideas from every part of the globe, made real by the plastic alchemists of the far East.  Protected in their steel shells from wind and water, they float across the Pacific like coconuts on an ironclad tide.

Numbers

Once unloaded, the mother ship but a memory, all individuality lost, the containers gather in droves on the shores of the promised land.  One by one, they are opened and inspected by the paranoia of Seattle’s finest in homeland security.  Papers cleared, passports stamped, Geiger counters in silence, the containers await the crab-like vehicles that gather them up in their pincers and deposit them on train lines etched silver on the asphalt docks.

Port of Seattle train linesTrain crossing

From there onwards, lifelines diverge.  Paths fork.  Train tracks curve and wind.  Cars rust and creak.  Steam rises at dawn.  In the distance are mountains, shining cities, dust bowls.  Transfer stations and miles of highway.  Midnight truck stops, fragrance of gasoline and bad coffee.  An entire continent awaits.

Port of Seattle trains

Eventually, entropy wins.  Everything is unloaded.  Outside its steel shell, uncertainty entangles and takes dramatic form.  Born into the world anew, now remembering only the limbo of the manufacturing floor, countless objects of consumption take flight.  Used briefly, most will spend the next millennia underground.  A lucky few will find their way back to the gyres of the Pacific, like salmon searching forever for the waters of their birth.

Train still life

Our creations, like ourselves.  Objects whose lives are a brief interlude between eternities of waiting.  We are what we make, and we make what we are.

Birdlife at the portTwin cranes

Back at the port, the machines tower over the frail human landscape.  Lines are drawn, but priorities are clear.

Harbor Island crane at sunset

This is monumental architecture, operating as intended.  Bereft of design, formless in the face of function, no frame of reference remains to humanize the grand automation of commerce.

Two cranes

The surrounding highways and bridges offer no respite.  They carry streams of motorized containers on wheels, protecting economically precious assets.  At sunset, the evening commute melts into the industrial landscape.  Until the weekend, we are but cargo.

West Seattle Bridge

Alas, there is no such thing as a perpetual motion machine.  Left to its own devices, the port will eventually halt.  We can prove it.  Energy pools will exhaust themselves, iron will rust, and engines will run down.  The prime mover is elsewhere, outside the system.  It is something more ancient, something native.

Seattle under the overpass

Behind every industrial act lie scores of unscratched itches, pools of fermented need, desires never satisfied, multiplication with no divisor.  Unspeakably unjust, and yet utterly indistinguishable from legitimacy, from hungry mouths, unshod feet, unclothed limbs.

Naked we emerge from the womb, here to eat, drink and breathe the world, one twenty-foot equivalent unit at a time.  A fine line separates our appetites from our combustion engines, our bodies from the machines that do our bidding.  Flesh becomes steel and glass, neurons electrons.  We increase efficiency, and do more with less.

Crowley building window

To gaze at the port is to gaze into the abyss. We may see a monster, but we cannot deny its essential humanity.  It is a mirror we hold up to ourselves, a conjoined twin grown to obscene size, sprawled in its own effluence. It is beautiful, and so are we.  It is frightening, and so we fear ourselves.  More so than humans themselves, the splendid machines are the quintessence of humanity, writ large on the smokestack sky, the polluted water, and the endless freighters.

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Jack Perry Memorial Shoreline

As night falls you find yourself somewhere along Alaskan Way, near the hulking ghost of the viaduct, writhing along an endless coil of street-level train lines.

A sign calls out to you and you head west through a landscape of parking lots, chain link fences, and buildings designed for bureaucracy. The road ends at a small rocky patch of waterfront at the mouth of the Duwamish East Waterway. It’s the Port of Seattle’s gift to you, a nicely wrapped box of required public shoreline access.

In front of you is Terminal 18, the largest container processing facility this side of Los Angeles. The sprawling scale of the operation evades comprehension.

Jack Perry Memorial Viewpoint

The terminal glows under a canopy of incandescent light. The sky resonates with infrared, but you only see pitch black. The crane stoops like a giant to gather containers. The work of a thousand men, performed in a fraction of a second. What is human here? What is machine?

In the distance you see a homeless man shuffle through bushes. You hear voices mutter on the wind. You consider the risk and realize it belongs to another world. What is human?

You hear the water splash against rotting piers, as the terminal dulls the air with bass and snare drum repartee. Containers rise, swing, and fall, transferring endlessly from ships to shore, shore to ships. The source code of the global economy, actions repeated as instructions, caught in the infinite loop of commerce. Empty or full, copied and pasted, repeat business. German ships with Chinese goods unloading on American shores.

Jack Perry Memorial Viewpoint

You are in someone’s favorite park, a small viewpoint born of unspeakable tragedy and the fortuitous availability of a hundred-and-twenty feet of unpaved shoreline. You are paying tribute to the life of Jack Perry, beloved son and father, someone just like you, someone not even the internet could identify.

The viewpoint is something small, less than promised, an inadequate tribute to a better man. It is also a window into something far greater than photography, than any still image. It is a honeypot for eyes that cannot close. It is an industrial elephant and your camera is blind.

This cannot last, you think. As the night deepens you will eventually tear yourself away and sleep, while the terminal remains standing. It will hum and snarl through the days and nights, a colossal perpetual motion machine bent on forever, until someone finds a way to disconnect it, or until the Earth itself breaks under its feet.

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